Ad* see below
I’m kind of digging the whole dungaree vibe at the moment and my latest is an oldie but goldie from Sew House Seven.
It was only a matter of time before I reached for this very popular pattern – The Burnside Bibs – you might remember my blog a few months ago about the dress version of this pattern which is Simplicity 8641 (a pattern collaboration between Sew House Seven and Simplicity Pattern Co), and you can read the full blog post about it here.
First things first, let’s talk fabric. This beautiful linen noil was gifted from Minerva and is a perfect match for this pattern.
I’m in love with the colour. I was really inspired by the sample on the pattern cover and the taupe colour way that I used was a fairly good match. If neutrals aren’t your thing then hop on over on the fabric link above and check out the other 28 colours available!
The weight of the fabric is perfect, and despite a little bit of fraying which is to be expected with linen, it was beautifully well behaved and a dream to press after each sewing step.
I feel sad that the true colours of my lilac acrylic scissors necklace didn’t show in these close ups for some reason, so will attach a picture below so that you can see it in all its glory! It’s available in my shop here x
The Burnside Bibs come with several different features that can be mixed and matched to make your perfect overalls. There are two bib shapes to choose from – a scooped neck which I chose to make, or a traditional straight front. Version #1 (which I made) has a more fitted back trouser with waist darts and an invisible side zip, whereas version #2 has a looser trouser back needing no zip. This version is fuller and more gathered at the back. Both versions feature a front waistband, curved patch pockets and cross-back straps which transition into narrower ties that are threaded through belt loops at the back. There are a number of ways that they can be tied, and finally they have wide legs that can be full length or cropped.
Because I am fairly short (5’2″) and pear shaped I decided to go for the more fitted back trouser as I don’t need any more bulk in that area thank you very much! My variable measurements are 35-29-39 atm which on the body measurement chart put me at a size 6 bust, between an 8 and a 10 on the waist, and a size 8 for hips. I guess that the hips on this more fitted trouser style are the most important measurement to look at and having also looked at the finished measurement chart I stuck at the recommended hip measurement for my hip size and traced out a size 8.
Before cutting any of my precious fabric, I opted to make changes to a couple of the pattern pieces. I knew that the leg length would be much too long for me (despite tracing out the cropped length), so to avoid as little fabric waste as I could I shortened the leg length at the shorten/lengthen markings by 2″. After looking at lots of the lovely versions of this pattern online I also decided that the curved pockets at the front might be a smidge too big for my proportions – not in width, just in height. So I shortened the front pocket pattern piece by 1.5″ and am so glad that I did this. Don’t worry they’re still nice and big.
Seam allowances on this pattern are the usual 5/8″ but do reduce to 3/8″ on certain parts, so take your time when sewing up this garment and read the instructions carefully.
Before I forget I should mention that there is quite a bit of top stitching on this pattern and I personally didn’t have enough thread (I used Gutermann shade 160 in a 100m/110 yd reel). Luckily I had a small amount of a very similar colour in my thread box so I used that to finish off and didn’t have to make a dash back to the haberdashery shop for more!
Another change that I made after looking through all those lovely Burnside pictures was to position the back pockets a little higher. I didn’t make any alterations on the size of these pockets, but did pop them on 1″ higher than the marked position and am happy with wear they sit. Again they are lovely and big and very useful.
The invisible zipper went in nicely and was very necessary in this version. There is no way that these would slip on or off over my hips without any openings!
The shoulder straps/ties are very long indeed so take care not to get them caught in any stitching after you have attached them at the top of the bib. The length is essential however to allow them to be tied in several different ways. I chose to reinforce the belt loops at the back when attaching them by using a tight zig-zag stitch, as I wanted them to be super strong with all the tugging and pulling that they will be put through every time the dungarees are taken on or off.
Also just to mention that I love the wide legs, and made no adjustments to the width of them.
I realise that I am last to the Burnside Bibs party, but better late than never hey?
Take care and I’ll be back soon,
Kathy @sew_dainty x
*This fabric was very kindly sent to me by Minerva in exchange for a review on their site, in my role as one of Minerva’s Brand Ambassadors. All thoughts and opinions are entirely my own. My Minerva post can be found here.