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The Zadie Jumpsuit from Paper Theory

I love a good bandwagon, and although I am a little late to this party – at least I turned up!

The Zadie Jumpsuit  is a pattern that I picked up a few months ago from The Fold Line. I’m pretty sure that most of you will be familiar with it, as it has been everywhere recently, but let’s run through the design ..

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It’s a very relaxed fitting jumpsuit which fastens by wrapping those ties around your body and doesn’t need any zips or buttons. Large slant pockets look great and are practical, and the flattering wrap design allows you to tie it as loose or tight as you like. I made the sleeveless version, but you can add sleeves if you like and the length of the leg is up to you!

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This pattern has quite a bit of ease built into it. On the ‘body measurement’ chart, I come up as a size 12, but noticed that the ‘finished garment measurements’ were really quite a bit bigger. I have read other reviews mention that they made one or two sizes smaller than the chart suggested, so I made a quick toile in a size 12 to see for myself what it would look like. It was really big, so after assessing the fit, I opted to size down 2 sizes and made the size 8. This feels so much better. I also noticed on my toile that the crotch length was too low, so shortened the rise by 1″ on this version.

This is the first Paper Theory pattern that I have sewn. I enjoyed the instructions and drawings, and found the pattern very easy to follow. I did, however, make a couple of small changes. One thing that I did was to stabilise the neck edge as soon as I had cut it out by ironing on this wonderful iron on bias tape from Sewessential. This magic tape does the same job as stay stitching, but I think is less tedious ( I hate stay stitching – it’s SO boring). The pattern calls for you to stay stitch the neckline after you have already sewn quite a few other seams, and I felt that due to the weight of the fabric, mine might have already stretched out by this stage with that much handling, so to be safe I secured that neckline edge with tape as soon as I had cut it out.

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The pockets are massive and I love them!

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Ooh I should mention that I’m not sure exactly what the fabric is. It was a £5 per metre bargain from the Birmingham Rag Market, and is a kind of linen blend I think.

The jumpsuit has small darts at the front and rear on both the bodice and the trousers. At first, when joining the bodice to the trousers, I didn’t think my pleats were lining up, but take care to line up your side seams and the centre front pattern marking and you will find that they match up perfectly.

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The wrap ties are nice and long – perfect for giving you a good shape at your waist. I like how one of the ties feeds through a slit in the side seam, this ensures a secure close fit to your boody.

Just a small point, but it might be worth mentioning…  on step 3C in the pattern instructions it tells you to sew the side seams, press them open, and then neaten them (with the overlocker or otherwise). I found that it was much less fiddly to neaten my edges before sewing the seams, then I could press my seams open with the raw edges already finished.

The bias trim around the edge of the neckline gives this jumpsuit a really neat and lovely finish I think. I used my trusty bias tape gadget to turn my strips into folded tape, but this isn’t necessary and you can easily make your own bias tape without.

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The trick when applying the tape is to pin it like crazy!  Especially around the curved lengths ( I used wonder clips in these areas).  Any wibbles and wobbles might be noticeable, so stitch into place slowly and carefully.

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For modesty, I added a tiny press stud to where the wrap crosses over just to keep it in place where I wanted it.

It’s incredibly comfortable to wear, and I feel that the 1″ rise shortening adjustment was right for me. It probably wouldn’t have hurt to have shortened the length of the bodice by a little too, however, I love it and feel it fits me quite nicely. Something for me to consider next time perhaps.

Of course, at 5’2″, I know I will always need to adjust the length of the legs. According to the ‘fitting notes’ in the instructions this is done by shortening the length at the hem (no shorten/lengthen markings), so this is what I did. To achieve this cropped length, I needed to turn up the length by 5.5″

I thoroughly enjoyed making up this pattern, and have already purchased a gorgeous chocolate brown linen ready for my next pair.

It’s a thumbs up from me. Stylish, comfortable and a lovely project to sew. There will be more!

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Take care, I’ll be back soon,

Kathy x

 

 

 

 

 

 

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New Look 6446 Jumpsuit

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I have been eyeing up this jumpsuit for ages, it’s an incredibly popular pattern which has been all over Instagram for quite some time now, and I finally got around to making it a couple of weeks ago.

I wanted something special to wear to The Sewing Weekender recently, and decided that this could be the time to make my first jumpsuit. New Look 6446 is a great pattern with several options. I made view C which is the version photographed on the pattern cover, there is a shorter leg length version included in this pattern, as well as the option to make a knee or maxi length dress. It has a square neckline with shoulder straps and a belt.

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I absolutely love the fabric choice shown in the picture on the pattern cover, and decided to choose something similar to make up my toile. I didn’t want something too expensive, but was hoping that it might be wearable, so opted for some Ikea Lenda fabric, which was only £5 per metre. I only needed 2 metres for this project. The fabric is a lovely teal colour, but perhaps not the best quality, I’ve only washed it a couple of times since I made it and suspect it might be prone to some bobbling in the not too distant future, but it certainly is wearable in the meantime, and I am very happy with how it turned out.

My measurements put me at a size 14, so this was my starting point. I enjoyed the construction process, particularly how the bodice is lined. I used a pretty blue floral cotton for my bodice lining. This was a leftover piece that I had in my stash, and whilst it’s difficult finding room sometimes to store all these leftover bits and pieces ( I sometimes think my leftover stash is bigger than my main fabric stash)! eventually you find a use for them.

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The fit was spot on for me, apart from a small gape on the bodice underneath my arms. Something  that a dart might fix, but as I only discovered this fit issue after I had sewn it up (including the bodice – doh!) I decided that the quickest way to fix this was to unpick the bodice and bodice lining and pinch in approximately 1.5cm from the top edge of each side seam and sew/grade this down to the waist seam.

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A glimpse of the bodice lining.

The shoulder straps were way too long for me, and I found that I had to trim 10cm from the length of these. It took me a long time to decide what leg length I wanted and after a great deal of deliberation and lots of research into images of this pattern on the internet, I removed 10cm from the leg length too, which left me with a 1″ seam allowance for the hem. Just right.

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The jumpsuit is fastened/unfastened with an invisible zip at the centre back, and it’s nice and easy to reach without help which is always a bonus. I love the little pleats at the front of the trouser legs, (it has darts at the back), the belt tie is the perfect length and looks really cute. Oh, and it has pockets!

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As soon as I put this jumpsuit on, I loved it. It was definitely the outfit that I wanted to wear on day 1 of the Sewing Weekender and in fact I decided to quickly cut out another  to take with me as the project that I wanted to sew that weekend too. For this version I used this beautiful stretch cotton twill which I really love, but if I’m honest it has a little too much stretch in it and the finished result doesn’t fit me as well as my first make. You live and learn!

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Again I lined the bodice with a cute floral leftover fabric, and finished it off with one of the wonderful gifts that we were lucky enough to have received in our goody bag at the weekender, which was this super cute clothing label kindly given to us all by Sew Me Sunshine.

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More floral lining and that fabulous clothing label from Sew Me Sunshine.

I cannot recommend this pattern highly enough, and think it looks really cute as it is, but hope I can get some wear out of it in the cooler months with the addition of a cardigan over the top or a t-shirt underneath.

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Take care, and I’ll be back soon,

Kathy x

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My #sewmystyle2018 April entry – the Marigold trousers from Tilly and the Buttons.

So this blog post contains something completely different from me -trousers!

The #sewmystyle2018 challenge is run by Jessica and it encourages you to make 12 garments in 12 months. Of course you don’t have to make all of them – I personally am dipping in and out of this challenge only choosing the items that I feel will wear often. This months make is the Marigold jumpsuit and trousers pattern from Tilly and the Buttons.

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I quite liked the idea of making the jumpsuit, but finally settled on making the trousers because:

  1. I never make trousers, so why not do something about this and these do look super cute and comfy for Summer.
  2. I can’t be doing with the whole stripping off to visit the toilet situation that you get with a jumpsuit!

I wondered if getting the fit of the trousers right would be tricky, so made up a toile first and was really glad that I did as I found that the crotch sat really low on me and I needed to raise this by 2″ to ensure a better fit. There is a great piece on how to fit your Marigold trousers on the Tilly website here.

Don’t forget that if you are raising your crotch height like me (using the adjustment lines on the pattern) that you need to shorten your pocket pieces by the same amount.

I did wonder if I should shorten the length of the legs too but I like the way they settle around my ankles so left them as they were.

 

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The trousers have a peg shaped leg tapering in to the ankles, and I am pleasantly surprised with how much I like how they have turned out. They have a gathered waist all the way around and are also shaped with small pleats and darts at the waist front and back. I think I quite like them! I am a huge fan of Tilly patterns and this did not disappoint.

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The fabric that I chose to make up this version in is a black geometric print viscose from Minerva Crafts. It was a very reasonable £4.99 per metre and I think it is perfect for these Marigolds.

I did have my concerns that the elasticated waist all the way around would look unflattering on my shape, but I don’t feel this to be the case. I also really like the deep pockets. Essential.

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So all in all I am really chuffed with them. I think you may have to choose your fabric wisely so as not to look like you have stepped out in your pyjamas, but I really love this black and white geometric print – they remind me on the time that I used to work for Monsoon/Accessorize and I wore these type of trousers alot during the Summer as my work uniform.

Do head on over to Instagram and check out the hashtag #sewmystyle2018 and #sewmystyle for more Marigold inspiration this month.

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Take care, and I’ll be back soon,

Kathy x